Understanding Active Ingredients in Hair Care: The Truth Behind the Label

When you browse through the aisles of your favourite beauty store, you’re likely bombarded with terms like “active ingredients” on shampoo bottles, conditioners, and styling products. But what does this really mean, especially when it comes to your hair? Let’s dive into the world of active ingredients in hair care, separating marketing hype from scientific facts to help you make informed choices for your hair health.

1. What Are Active Ingredients?

Technically, there are no “active ingredients” in cosmetic products in the true sense of the term. An active ingredient is defined as a component that provides a measurable, medical benefit, typically used in pharmaceuticals. In the realm of hair care, “active ingredient” is more of a marketing buzzword implying certain benefits like moisture retention, hair strengthening, or shine enhancement. These ingredients generally work on the surface of your hair rather than providing deep, lasting changes.

2. Common Active Ingredients in Hair Care and Their Functions

Active ingredients in hair care products fall into several categories, each serving a unique purpose:

• Anti-Acne: Ingredients like Salicylic Acid and Tea Tree Oil help manage scalp issues by reducing excess oil, unclogging pores, and combating bacteria.

• Exfoliators: AHA’s (e.g., Glycolic Acid) and BHA’s (e.g., Salicylic Acid) remove dead skin cells from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.
• Antioxidants: Vitamin E (tocopherol), Camellia Oil, and Coenzyme Q10 protect hair from environmental damage and free radicals, which can cause dryness and breakage.

• Moisturisers: Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid attract and retain moisture, keeping hair hydrated and preventing dryness.

• Sunscreens: Ingredients like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide protect hair from UV damage by reflecting or scattering harmful rays.

• Bioactives: Components such as Peptides and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Aminexil interact with hair biochemistry to enhance strength, elasticity, and overall health.

3. Benefits of Protein-Based Ingredients

Protein-based ingredients like Keratin and Hydrolysed Silk are popular in hair care for their ability to temporarily strengthen and smooth the hair shaft. These proteins fill in gaps in the hair cuticle, reducing breakage and improving texture. While they offer a short-term boost, they don’t provide permanent changes since they don’t penetrate deeply into the hair structure.

Example: Kérastase’s Resistance line utilises proteins to reinforce hair fibres, making them ideal for damaged or over-processed hair.

4. Importance of Moisturising Agents

Moisturising agents are crucial for maintaining hair hydration and preventing dryness. Humectants like Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid draw moisture from the environment into the hair, while Occlusive Agents like Petrolatum and Lanolin lock in that moisture by forming a protective barrier.

Example: Evo’s Hydration Boost conditioner features Sodium PCA and Shea Butter to ensure your hair stays moisturised and manageable.

5. Role of Active Ingredients in Hair Care

Active ingredients play various roles in hair care, from cleansing and conditioning to protecting and repairing. They work primarily on the surface of the hair, providing immediate but often temporary benefits. Understanding their functions can help you choose products that align with your specific hair needs.

6. Preservatives and Their Impact on Hair Products

Preservatives like Parabens and Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents are essential for preventing microbial growth, thereby extending the shelf life of hair products. While there is some controversy surrounding their safety, studies have generally found them to be safe in the concentrations used in cosmetics.

Example: Kérastase’s products use safe preservatives to ensure their formulations remain effective and free from harmful bacteria.

7. Understanding Sulphates and Parabens

Sulfates such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) are powerful cleansers that create lather in shampoos. However, they can strip natural oils from the hair and scalp, leading to dryness and irritation. Parabens are used as preservatives but have faced scrutiny over potential health risks, although definitive evidence is lacking.

Example: Evo offers sulphate-free shampoos that cleanse without stripping essential oils, making them suitable for sensitive or dry scalps.

8. The Science Behind pH Balancing

Maintaining the right pH balance is vital for hair health. Hair’s natural pH ranges between 4.5 and 5.5. Products with a high pH can open the hair cuticle, causing frizz and damage, while pH-balanced products help smooth the cuticle, enhancing shine and protection.

Example: Kérastase’s Discipline line is pH-balanced to ensure your hair remains smooth and frizz-free.

Evo’s Hydrate and Ritual Salvation are focused on bringing hair back to the correct pH of 4.5-5.5.

9. Evaluating the Effectiveness of Ingredients

Many hair care ingredients remain on the surface of the hair or scalp and do not penetrate deeply into the living layers (dermis). The stratum corneum, composed of dead skin cells, acts as a barrier, causing most products to eventually wash away as these cells shed. Contrary to some marketing claims, the idea that “60% of what you put on your body is absorbed into your skin” is largely a myth.

Scientific Insight: While some ingredients can provide surface-level benefits, their long-term effectiveness depends on regular use and how well they interact with your hair’s specific needs.

10. Tips for Choosing Products Based on Active Ingredients

• Identify Your Needs: Determine whether you need hydration, repair, frizz control, or protection from environmental damage.
• Read Labels Carefully: Look for key ingredients that match your hair goals, such as Glycerin for moisture or Keratin for strength.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: If you have a sensitive scalp or dry hair, opt for sulfate-free and paraben-free products.
• Consider Bioactives: Ingredients like Peptides and Niacinamide can provide deeper benefits for hair health over time.
• Test and Observe: Everyone’s hair reacts differently, so it might take some experimentation to find the right combination of ingredients for your hair type.

How Do Active Ingredients Work?

Active ingredients function by interacting with your hair and scalp to provide specific benefits. However, their effectiveness can vary:

• Penetration: Most active ingredients remain on the surface layers (stratum corneum) and do not penetrate deeply into the living dermis.

• Scientific Evidence: While some ingredients have been studied in double-blind, controlled trials, many hair care claims lack robust scientific backing. Always look for products with ingredients supported by credible research.
• Temporary vs. Long-Term Benefits: Ingredients like Proteins offer immediate but temporary improvements, whereas bioactives like Peptides may provide longer-term benefits with consistent use.

Where Do Active Ingredients Go?

When you apply a hair product, the active ingredients typically settle on the surface of the hair and scalp. They interact with the outermost layer, the stratum corneum (composed of dead skin cells), rather than the living dermis beneath. Over time, these ingredients are washed away as the dead cells shed, meaning their effects are temporary unless continually reapplied.

Debunking Myths: Absorption Rates

A common misconception is that a significant portion of applied products (up to 60%) is absorbed into the body. In reality, most cosmetic ingredients remain on the surface and do not penetrate deeply enough to have a systemic effect. This myth often serves marketing purposes but lacks scientific validity.

Ingredient Spotlight: Kérastase and Evo

Both Kérastase and Evo are renowned for incorporating high-quality ingredients into their hair care lines:

Kérastase:

• Biotin: Strengthens hair and promotes growth.
• Ceramides: Restore the hair’s natural barrier.
• Arginine: Enhances hair elasticity and shine.
• Aminexil: Promotes hair growth and prevents hair fall.
• Hyalronic Acid: Intense hydration.
• Gluco-Peptides: Repairs strenght and elasticity.

Evo:

• Shea Butter: Provides deep hydration and smoothness.
• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Moisture retention.
• Hydrolysed Quinoa Protein: Quinoa protein strengthens hair, repairs damage, and improves shine by forming a protective barrier around each strand. **Great for Celiac’s**

While the term “active ingredients” in hair care is more of a marketing tool than a scientific classification, understanding the roles and limitations of these ingredients can empower you to make better choices for your hair health. Focus on what your hair needs—be it moisture, strength, or protection—and select products with ingredients that align with those goals. Remember, consistency is key, and combining the right products with a healthy hair care routine will yield the best results.

Happy hair care!
xx
Becky B